A Beginner Guide for 35mm Film Photography

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ax4Yn16Rw8s

  • SLR film cameras allow you to freely change lenses and manually control the parts of the exposure triangle
    • Point-and-shoots might be better in cases where you value shooting quickly vs. customization
    • You generally want to take your time and value “creatively correct” exposures with SLR film cameras
  • Private secondhand markets (eBay) are the best places to find deals on film cameras, but you need to be doubly sure that the camera works before purchasing
  • 35mm film have 2 defining characteristics: style and price
    • Kodak Gold 200 is a good cheap-ish colored film for beginners
      • Main caveat being that it’s ISO 200, which means that it needs more light and requires slower shutter speeds/wider apertures
  • Make sure that you only open the back of your camera when loading and removing
    • Film is light-sensitive, so any time you expose your roll to light, expect to see some internal damage after developing it
  • When shooting digital, it’s often advantageous to under-expose, but you want to correctly or slight over-expose. your shots with film
    • This is because in film photography, details are easier to recover from highlights

Mistakes I made when learning to shoot film

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o8pK7G2_tOA

  • Shooting film is difficult because there isn’t that instant feedback loop that comes with a DSLR
    • That is, you often only find out about mistakes when you get results back from a lab
      • And even then, it’s difficult to diagnose what caused it b/c you don’t have a record of your exposure settings for each shot (unless you keep one, which is tedious)
  • Metering is taking an exposure reading of something, which tells you what settings you need to use to get to middle-gray (mid tones)
    • When you’re shooting at something like the Sun (which we call a highlight because it’s lightly colored), you don’t want to optimize for middle-gray and can do with some under-exposure from the meter’s reading
      • In other words, you’re overcompensating for what you want the scene to actually look like; we wouldn’t want mid-gray in this case, and instead something more vibrant
    • But when you want your ‘shadows’ (darker parts of your image) to be visible, you need to expose more than what the meter tells you
      • Called “exposing for the shadows” - with the obvious side effect that your highlights may get blown out
  • If you want to shoot in artificial light (Tungsten) environments, normal film won’t work - you probably want to use a Tungsten balance film
    • Otherwise, your shots will be coated in orange